Turtle Islands, an archipelago of eight little islands thrown across the Atlantic Ocean, are by far one of the most ‘cast-away’ destinations I have visited in Sierra Leone. Even though lying only 150km away from Freetown, these charming and secluded islands are quite hard to reach. Hours by speedboat from Freetown or at least a 6-hour drive to Yagoi (half of it on a dirt road which cost us a flat tire), plus a few more hours on a speedboat, meandering across the sandbanks – that’s what it takes to get to their breathtaking azure.
But when you finally make it through the sandbanks – a paradise: sky blue waters, golden sands dotted with mussels, and silhouettes of the palm trees stretching along the coast. In the villages deaf to the passage of time, we walk around thatched houses hidden between the trees; we watch fishermen repairing their nets, coloured wooden boats getting ready for the sea; and then the sunset, when a palette of violets and pinks shimmers across the horizon.
Visit Turtle Islands, just off the west coast of Sherbro Island: Baki, Bumpetuk, Chepo, Hoong, Mut, Nyangei, Sei and Yele. Off we go!
Practical tips
When hiring a speedboat from Bonthe, make sure you have enough fuel to visit the islands once you get there AND to come back to Bonthe/Yagoi.
Tides around the islands are strong; low tides may cause you trouble if your boat gets stuck on a sandbank.
Baki Guesthouse has 2 rooms with mattresses; they can provide charcoal, cooking utensils (basic) and bedsheets. Bring plenty of water and food. Actually, bring more water than you think you would need.
How about bringing your own tent?
Fancy a fresh lobster or fish? Talk to the fishermen in the morning and maybe you will get lucky!
Always ask the chief of the village/elders if you can visit the island before you start doing whatever you plan to do. Signs of appreciation are welcome.
